The Ceviche Recipe That Changed My Summer

Good ceviche lives or dies on two things most recipes treat as afterthoughts: the freshness of the fish and the acidity of the citrus doing the cooking. Get those right and the rest — onion, chile, cilantro, salt — is really just seasoning.

Use the freshest fish you can find, cut into even pieces no larger than a bite. Toss with lime juice, thinly sliced red onion, a minced aji or serrano, and salt. Let it sit just long enough for the edges to turn opaque — five minutes, not fifteen.

Serve immediately, with the citrus-and-fish liquid — leche de tigre, if you want the proper name — spooned over the top. A side of sweet potato or toasted corn is traditional, and it works: something starchy to cut the acid keeps the dish from feeling like all edges.